Is the Problem with My Switch or My Actuator?
When an actuator stops responding, the fault could be in the actuator itself, the control switch, the wiring, or the power supply. This article shows the fastest way to isolate which component is at fault.
The 3-Minute Isolation Test
1. Bypass the switch — connect actuator directly to PSU
Touch the actuator's red wire to PSU positive and black wire to PSU negative. The actuator should extend. Reverse polarity — it should retract. If it works: the actuator is fine. The problem is in the switch, control box, or wiring. If it doesn't work: the actuator may be faulty. Proceed to step 2.
2. Measure voltage at the actuator terminals
With the switch in the extend position, use a multimeter to measure DC voltage at the actuator motor wire terminals (after the switch). If the voltage is correct (12 V or 24 V) but the actuator doesn't move, the actuator motor has likely failed internally — contact PA Support.
3. Test the switch with continuity
With power off, use a multimeter in continuity mode on each pair of terminals in the switch. Toggle through all positions. Any open circuit where there should be continuity confirms a faulty switch.
4. Test the power supply output
Measure voltage directly at the PSU output terminals. If it reads significantly lower than rated voltage (e.g., 8 V instead of 12 V), the PSU is overloaded or failing.
✅ Quick summary: Actuator works on direct PSU connection → switch or wiring problem. Actuator silent even on direct PSU → actuator motor or internal fault. Correct voltage at terminals but no movement → internal motor failure or stalled mechanism.